Read days 1 through 8 to learn how I prepped for the big race once I reached Leh.
MY DROP – BAG STRATEGY WAS SIMPLE: There were three drop off points: first one at North Pullu that was 15km from the start point – the next was at Khardung La top that was 32km from start point and the last one was at South Pullu, which was 47km from the start point. I would remove my thermal wear and jacket with my compression top at the very last drop – off point at South Pullu.
The technique of wearing a cotton tee underneath my compression top was a gamble – I had no idea if it would work, but it’s how I love to race – light – and it’s exactly how I want to be in the easier downhill portion which would be my strength in the race. Making sure to drop my drop – bag (along with the one containing my clothes from the previous day) in the “South Pullu” van, I went to the breakfast area with all three of my friends.
It was 2 AM. The porridge was hot and it was all we wanted in the needle – pricking- cold. Eggs and hot tea were also served. I took minimal quantify of food remembering I had yet to empty my bowel. I sneaked away inbetween for a call under the starry outdoors a considerable distance from the breakfast point and thanked the good Lord for the unused tissue paper stowed away from yesterday’s lunch, which I used for the job.
I hadn’t taken diamox, but had the unquenchable desire to pee – which happened thrice over the period of one hour. This was concerning because I knew it would dehydrate me well before the event. I kept sipping water as I waited. As we waited for the start at 3AM, the inspiring runners from Silk Route (122 km ultra) crossed our start point and ran ahead, while we cheered them on. It was soon 2:50 AM. It was time for a warm-up. All four of us got into the groove as we warmed up our joints with all 200 participant’s breaths exuding like steam into the cold morning air.
The race started exactly on time – and it was interesting to note not even one of the participants ran ahead except for the elites – all of them knew it was a serious mistake, which would lead to severe exhaustion before reaching the peak at 32km. We walked our way up- jogging where we could and tried to keep the pace at 9:30 to 10 minutes per kilometer.
The effects of less sleep and low oxygen started to show after 10 km of walking and jogging. Jinesh went on ahead while I had to slow down to a pace of 11 minutes per km, steadying myself from walking all over the road. Taking short breaks to drink water and electrolytes every 5km and a 10 second break to sip water every kilometre, I kept the pace up to North Pullu (15km). And then, tragedy hit.
As the climb got higher, walking progressively became more and more difficult. By the time I crossed 25km, my brain was foggy. It was all I could do to keep moving forward and not come to a grinding halt. The pace which had once been 9 minutes and 30 seconds per km then fell to 11 and now it was around 12 minutes per km. Only one thought was in my mind: “these people are crazy”. Yes, they’re probably thinking the same about me.
The last 5km to the top: my Garmin beeped – I had crossed 27km. I made a mental calculation of how far Jinesh would be ahead of me. Assuming he had maintained 10 minute per km pace, he would be around 20-30 minutes ahead. I tried to keep plodding forward, but the more I tried, the more tired I got. I spotted an older gentleman who was running The Silk 122km Ultra and shadowed him for a while, using him to block the harsh winds partially so my job got a little easier. After spending 3km behind him, I felt I got the energy to overtake and move forward.
The last 2km to the top was perhaps the most difficult I have ever done in my life- and mind you, the races and practice sessions I have done have been anything but dull. I was able to breathe but there was hardly any oxygen in the air and I was depleted after having walked 30km from 4 AM. I felt giddy and sat down by the roadside on a rock. Getting my bearings, waiting for the heart rate to drop to 130, I started walking again. I repeated this process four times until I finally got to Khardung La top. I was a mess. I was not medically fit and as a doctor I knew it would be dangerous to keep doing this.
“SHOULD I QUIT?” – the statement did pop up into my mind and I would be lying if I said it didn’t. I thought about all the years of running, hard practice, balancing my coaching with my training and eye surgeries.
NO – I COULD DEFINITELY DO THIS. I collapsed into a chair and the soldiers immediately gave me hot soup. The minute I downed a bowl and had some Nimbu Pani, I felt alive again. Not recovered by a long shot – but felt I could make the downhill journey in one piece. I sucked water from my hydration bag and downed some electrolyte snacks- just 40 more kilometres. That’s less than a a full marathon- and I’ve done plenty of those. My balance was all over the place- and it was all I could do, to keep myself from falling headfirst as I got up from the chair and started jogging downhill.
Was I making the right decision? Medically speaking – yes. The treatment for high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema was immediate descent – and that’s what I set out to do, using a pace as fast as possible, which would permit me to keep my balance without sending me over the edge. The aid stations every 5 km helped a lot, though I was not severely dependent on them as I was during the uphill climb. I knew catching up with Jinesh and Ravi was out of the question, but I decided to put on the best performance I possibly could, and as God would have it, the altitude sickness just magically lifted after 10km of steady downhill running.
During my 10km descent, I overtook as many as fifteen runners. 30 more kilometers remaining – I glanced at my Garmin and smiled. “Let’s do this”, I muttered to myself and put on some speed. I overtook two more lads, and one of the youngsters started giving chase, not about to give up his position. I had no idea what place I was in but I wasn’t going to give up either. Now it was just a question of managing leg fatigue- and I had had enough and more training at Kodaikanal for the same. I stuck to a pace that was moderately hard and was still fast enough to get the other athlete to slow down.
I soon reached South Pullu which was my designated layering down point. Praying my bag would be untouched in the van, I rummaged through where I kept my bag and found it at the bottom. Dragging it out, I removed my beanie, jacket and thermals to expose my cotton t-shirt underneath with my name on it. I donned a Saucony cap from my bag to protect myself from the harsh sunlight, wore arm sleeves and was back on the road. The whole process took two minutes.
We took turns to go fast- when I slowed down, the guy behind me would sprint up to me and I’d start running again at a moderately-hard pace without sprinting. The see-saw effect continued to happen till we overtook three more athletes after rounding every turn. And then I noticed it- the steady footfalls of someone other than this young lad. I didn’t turn back until I heard a mini bus honk from behind me and I had to turn to give way. Right on my heels was a Ladhaki- a local of Ladakh silently closing in for the kill.
I wondered what he was doing all the way back here when he should have been at the front of the pack- either way, I didn’t want to let up. Survival instinct kicked in- or should I say the instinct to win. I was about to complete the 59th km- 13km left to complete the race and I could almost taste it. I closed my eyes, took a deep breath and set off at a pace of 6 minutes per kilometer, leaning forward to use the downhill gradient to help my endeavours without wasting energy. Lightly flicking my heels I surged ahead.
In two kilometres, I glanced back and noticed both athletes behind me were nowhere to be seen. I slowed down temporarily, making use of an aid station to refill electrolytes. I soon crossed the 62nd kilometre. “Just ten more kilometres”, I said to myself. However it was easier said than done. The route seemed to be getting longer and longer by the second. I was looking out for the petrol bunk that would signal it was only 5 more km to the finish line, but the bunk was nowhere in sight. “C’mon c’mon c’mon”, I repeatedly muttered as I overtook two more athletes – but these were Silk Ultra Participants.
The Petrol Bunk soon arrived. I glanced at my watch – it was only 63km- maybe the race would be over at 68km and the route was not properly planned? Either way, I didn’t give it much thought – I turned around and saw both the Ladhaki and the youngster closing the gap. I smiled,”Time to shine”. That was when hyper- mode kicked in. Setting off at a pace of sub 5 minutes per km, I was running when almost everyone around me were exhausted and resorting to walk-jogs. To my pleasant surprise, I crossed Ravi and waved to him in encouragement as I passed by, almost sprinting toward a finish I assumed was just 5km away.
As fate would have it- that was not the case. The course had been correctly plotted and to my dismay it turned out to be 8km from the petrol pump and not 5. The route took us into the small streets of Leh town, and as we made our way near the route to Shanti Stupa, a volunteer shouted just 4km left! I don’t know if he expected me to be happy but I was totally exhausted and didn’t know if I had the juice to go through the remaining four.
Not knowing what to do, I turned around and to my surprise, saw the Ladhaki boy hot on my heels. Summoning the last bit of my energy reserves, I dug into my fat stores to keep the speed constant without going into anaerobic mode. It was a task running at 150+ heart rate after 68 km into this gruelling race, but I kept my mind focused on the finish. Gritting my teeth, I made it through the undulations in elevation, using strides to run down and jogging up the steeper slopes. One more glance at the Garmin showed 1km left.
The last kilometre: stealing a look behind me, I noticed my competitor had vanished but it didn’t slow me down. Flicking my heels with slightly more force, I surged forward at sub 5 minutes per km pace, confidently running straight through the main roads to Leh Market – a route that now felt like home.I still wasn’t sprinting yet – that was reserved for the blue – carpet – ending. My heart rate seemed to be almost 160 now, and I could just hear vague cheers from people whose faces were a blur as I rushed past them.
400 meters to go – another 200 meters later, I saw the blue carpet – there were railings and a carpet inbetween with a huge throng of public and tourists on either side, cheering with all their might for a stranger completing one of the most difficult races in the world. I started to sprint – my eyes were mildly watering – emotional tears? Running at full tilt, I almost fell forward, but managed to regain balance and kept running. Seeing a few extended hands, I made an effort to high five one of them. The crowd cheered as if I was finishing in first place as I ran across the finish line, which I later realised was more of a jog than a run.
IT WAS DONE! 10 hours and 55 minutes of running the most adventurous race of my life. My hands on my knees, I regained my breath. By God’s grace – The Khardung La Challenge was no longer an impossible event on the bucket list! My eyes almost in tears, I walked to the rehab tent and let the doctors and paramedical staff examine me. To my shock my SpO2 was 77 on three different instruments. After a thorough exam they just kept me on observation for ten minutes, following which the repeat measurements showed 88. (Ravi had arrived five minutes after I did).I then walked over to the stage to recieve my well deserved medal.
I then headed toward where Jinesh and Mahalakshmi were waiting behind the rehab tent. After talking to new found friends there, we went to a cafe nearby for a well – deserved Lunch combined with tea. (It was almost 4PM by now). Jinesh had finished in 10+ hours around 40 minutes ahead of me. Most of the sub ten and sub nine hour athletes were Ladhakis and well known ultra runners. I knew I would not be in the top twenty, but I was happy with my overall performance in the race especially toward the end. I had suffered badly between 15-32km but that couldn’t be helped. Next time, maybe?
Jinesh and I returned to our room, while Mahalakshmi stayed back to collect our drop off bags from the vans. She returned with all the bags plus a parcel of cake and doughnuts. The intense run was still gnawing at our tummies and we dug into the food. Jinesh was worried that some of his stuff was missing from his drop off bag – this is something the organisers have to look into the next year. A volunteer who would wait right by the side of the van till we collected our bags would be nice.
Finishing the eventful day with dinner, Jinesh, me and Mahalakshmi went to Hotel Bon Appetit, which is a must – visit – a beautiful restaurant with an adventurous approach – a lane that looks dangerous, but is actually maintained well. We noticed many foreigners there and the quality of food didn’t disappoint either.
I slept like a log that night. Getting up on time, I packed my bags, wished Ravi, Jinesh and Mahalakshmi goodbye and got into my taxi. Barely making it to the airport on time, I got through security and caught the flight to Delhi. The Delhi to Chennai flight was on time and I reached Chennai by 4:30 PM.
I decided to visit my in- laws and pick up Sanju from there. We made it back to the airport and caught the flight to Trichy, arriving home at 9PM. It was hard to believe that just 48 hours earlier, I was in Khardung Village, getting ready for the race of my life. “Till I return”, I thought to myself as I closed my eyes. I had a half marathon race (KMC Half Marathon) to run the next day at Trichy. Best get some rest.
The results arrived in a few days and I was happy with what I saw. It isn’t an easy task being in the top 50 among 200 determined athletes who were experienced with the distance and the altitude.
P.S: Dr. Mahalakshmi participated in the half marathon at Leh, while Ravi and Jinesh also did a full marathon there on the very next day. All of them did well and finished with decent timings at one of the world’s highest towns.
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